In terms of orientation, the ends of the Rockaways (Breezy Point and Far Rockaway) are probably the least accessible for different reasons. On the far west, Breezy Point is a gated community--mainly NYPD/NYFD employees and wealthy white folks. Far Rockaway on the east is unfortunately still very poor and under-developed. In the middle of the peninsula is Arvene, Rockaway Beach and Rockaway Park.
The Rockaways are a bit of a paradox. There's a lot of independent restaurants and bars and not very many chains (no Starbucks) but enough to make living here manageable for the essentials. Stilll it's hard to get apparel and housewares here. No movie theaters to speak of (yet) but I've seen postings for film screenings at various venues. Transit's pretty good though (depending on where you work). It's about an hour from the middle of the Rockaways to lower Manhattan by subway or ferry.
Lots of good beaches with Riis Beach in Neponsit neighborhood and Rockaway Beach being the primary centers of action. The boardwalk which extends pretty much the whole length of the penisula is pretty awesome.
The Jamaica Bay Wildlife preserve in nearby Broad Channel is one of several nature/wildlife sanctuaries in the area.
This is a great podcast episode from the Bowery Boys about the history of the Rockaways. It's from 10 years ago but I think gives a lot of perspective on the history and evolution of the area.
Rockaway Beach
Rockaway Beach Boulevard is the main commercial strip with lots of local restaurants bars and shops. This is also where the post office and public library are located and where the main bus line (Q22) runs the western length of the peninsula into Queens proper. There's a strip mall here with a big Key Foods and a CVS. There are a few train stops in this neighborhood and the NYC ferry lets off here (on the Jamaica Bay side). There are seasonal food vendors on the boardwalk (pizza, tacos, seafood, arepas) all are really great.
Rockaway Park
This is the neighborhood around Beach 116th which is where the train ends on the West side of the peninsula and is the other big commercial strip in the Rockaways. The usual stuff you'd expect to find Chase Bank, Duane Reade, a big supermarket (forget the name), farmers market, liquor stores, some local shops, cafes etc. A fair amount of folks from nearby care facilities congregate here which could put some people off a bit.
Adler & Son’s Rockaway Favorites
Arverne by the Sea
This area in the 60s-80s was redeveloped in the past 20 years and there's a lot of new condos and rentals near the ocean side (south of Rockaway Beach Boulevard and a lot of modest homes on the Jamaica Bay side, north of the Boulevard). There's a big supermarket (Stop N Shop), bank (Chase) and liquor store here as well as a branch of the Y (for working out) and a little, newish strip of restaurants and bars on Rockaway Beach Boulevard in this hood.
#avernebythesea #rockaway #averne
Rockaway Brewery
Local brewery with an event space, food vendors outdoor seating and vinyl records for sale. A lot of surfers hang out here and it's pretty chill.
https://rockawaybrewco.com/
@rockawaybrewco
Sarya's Wine Bar
Cute wine bar with a fun backyard patio/grotto and small plates.
https://www.yelp.com/biz/sayras-wine-bar-far-rockaway
@sayraswinebar
Rockaway Beach Surf Club
The place that made the Rockaways hip again. Open to all, this surfer hangout with great drinks and good tacos. They have some LGBT events here too. Good tacos at Tacoway Beach (which is inside)
http://www.rockawaybeachsurfclub.com/
@rockawaybeachsurfclub
Rockaway Hotel
THE Rockaways hotspot with 3 restaurants (pool side, roof deck and street level) with a hip coffee shop (Greenhouse) and boutique (Tunie's) selling locally focused/made items.
https://www.therockawayhotel.com/
@therockawayhotel
Rockaway Tiki Bar
Tropical drinks and high-quality food in an island vibey setting
https://www.rockawaytikibar.com/
@rockawaytikibar
Rockaway Beach Bakery:
Great hip, bakery all items baked on site. All women staff. Amazing pastries and breakfast sandwiches.
https://www.rockawaybeachbakery.com/
@rockawaybeachbakery
Uma's
The only Uzbeki restaurant I've ever been too in NYC. Really awesome.
http://umasrockaway.com/
@umas_restaurants
Bernadette's
Really great place for comfort food takeout.
https://www.bernadettesny.com/
@bernadettesrockaway
The Wharf
Bayside restaurant (hidden behind a garage) with a VERY local vibe. Fried foods of various provenence and strong cocktails. Cash only.
https://www.facebook.com/thewharfrockaway/
@thewharf_rockaway
Bar Marseille
High end French Brasserie restaurant; recently opened. Good food, if a bit pricey. Happy hour oysters.
https://www.barmarseille.com/
@barmarseillerockaway
Ship to Shore Wineshop:
Good local wine shop with friendly staff. Got some Mary J. Blige rose here last year (which is better than it sounds)
https://shiptoshorewineshop.com/
@shiptoshorewineshop
Bungalow Bar
Bayside restaurant with a distinct "party" vibe on weekends for the younger, dancier set.
@bungalowbarny
Avoid the Day Bookstore and Cafe
Independent bookstore and cafe/wine bar run by locals with a lot of knowledge about the hood. Good place to pick up books by locals about the Rockaways (Jill Eisenstadt's novels Swell or From Rockaway or Diane Cardwell's Rockaway, Surfing Headlong into a New Life, which is sort of an Under the Tuscan Sun type memoir but in the Rockaways).
https://www.avoidtheday.org/
@atdbookbar
The Gift is Love
If you have a sense of humor and love (or can stomach) the kitsch this is a fun beach town style gift shop (think Jersey Shore) with some occasional hip items thrown in for good measure.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Shopping---Retail/The-Gift-is-Love-131413823584191/
@thegiftislovex5
Interested in learning more about the Rockaways?
Adler & Son’s Guide to Queens
The 7 train is the international express!